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Tip O' The Day


Tip O' The Day

Weathering - Lots of Tips    


[Science!]

Category:

   Weathering

Submitted By:

   Scott Lintern

Tip:

   For a laser strike, I like to "dent" the panel first by holding a soldering iron under the panel (good control with the iron) and pushing in from the other side to give it a pumelled effect. I then paint the visible side with a metalizer paint and buff it. I then use latex masking fluid and paint the ships primer coat, then reapply latex fluid so it covers a ring around the previous latex coat so when it gets peeled off it looks like there are many depths to the burnt paint. I build up all the color layers this way untill I paint a black-brown blastmark around the blast area in the direction of the blast with an airbrush. Be sure to hold the airbrush on an angle to the panel if you want movement in the finished product. I find a round blast mark tends to make the model look stationary. I finish the trails of the blast mark with pastels ground down and applied with a soft brush.

I use the latex masking fluid for scratches ans worn edge panels as described earlier but obviously without the carbon.

If I need a mud effect (feet for an ATST or Stormtrooper boots) I use artist oils due to their thickness or if I can't replicate the same colour with artist oils than I did somewhere else with arcylics or enamels, I mix some talc with the paint to thicken it up a bit. I usually apply is with a piece of thick card or a spattula, really cake it on.

For drybrushing I like to use oils as you dont have to continuously load up the brush for fast drying enamels and metalizer.

If I'm painting blast streaks I use a ruler as a guide to get perfectly straight carbon lines.

I always apply washes to all of my models, whether they are battle damaged or straight out of the workshop. It helps bring out the detail. Obviously followed by a dry brush.

Apply clear sheet (cockpit glass, etc...) with clear drying wood glue. Not only does it stop the clear from breaking down like super glue does but when its dry, it is clear like the glass.

I like to paint clear tape and cut it into stips if I need to show framework to clear panels. Like the frame of an aircraft cockpit.

To make bullet holes, I like to heat up a needle over a candle and push it through the panel from the back. That way when you draw it back out it takes all of the meltes plastic with it to leave a recessed hole. Any left over plastic is trimmed by screwing a blade inside the hole. A row of these look good as machine gun fire.


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Tips database last updated 21 July 2014



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DISCLAIMER: These procedures and practices represent the recommendations of the members of the Starship Modeler readership. These ideas are not necesscessarily endorsed for their saftey or results by the staff of Starship Modeler. The reader assumes full responsibility for any and all results stemming from the application of the procedures and practices listed here.








This page copyright ©1999-2022 .
Previously updated on 9 May 2007 and 26 August 2014. Source last updated on 11 September 2022.

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This page copyright ©1999-2022 . Previously updated on 9 May 2007 and 26 August 2014. Source last updated on 11 September 2022.