The problem with an accurization list for the Enterprise-A is that
entire books have been written on the subject (as that this particular
object of interest has been scrutinized that closely by that many
people). The particular book of interest is Star Fleet Assembly Manual
No. 4. Alas this book is out of print.
Next best is to pick up a copy of the revised Spaceships of Fact &
Fantasty courtesty of Kalmbach Publishing (aka Fine Scale Modeler).
There is a previously published article on accurizing the Enterprise-A
which is for all intents and purposes a condensed version of SFAM#4.
Here's a short list of things to examine... (and I'm probably going to
- Random panel detail must go. Solving this involves much putty, sanding,
and airbrush masks. See the various Star Trek references for
information about the so-called "Aztec Panel detail" or Ron Eccles' article here.
- Warp Nacelle bussard collectors are inaccurate. Refer to various
Star Trek references for accurization details.
- Warp supports are missing some details. The interior sides require
scribing plasma conduit covers, and the explosive bolt covers beside the
covers need to be cut out of strip styrene and applied. The plasma
conduit covers should painted a light "engineering" green.
- Officer's lounge is incorrectly shaped. Aft-most section of decks B &
C on the upper saucer section.
- No rec-deck windows on the starboard rear saucer rim. Cut the appropriate sized
hole and with sheet stryene create the correct 4 over 4 windows.
- Window inserts for saucer rim are wrong. The windows should be
symmetrical through a verical axis. Look at the lower set of windows,
one of them should be filled and a new one drilled.
- Deflector grid on engineering section is wrong. Fill and scribe the
correct lines. Missing lowermost deflector grid. Scribe it new.
Missing all phaser turrets on the engineering section.
- The hatches covering the lower saucer docking ports are wrong.
The panel details for an emergency landing pad is missing on the saucer.
All of these things need to be filled and the correct lines scribed.
- Lower sensor array on the saucer is both in-accurate and too small and
the recessed details are incorrect.
- Upper sensor array on the saucer is too tall. Slice it off, sand
smooth the bridge and the array and re-glue it to the bridge.
- Bridge aft-section is too long.
- Rim around the Matter/Anti-Matter reactor on the saucer is too tall. This
requires delicate surgery to correct.
- Rim around the main deflector is missing "light" details. Rims around
the main deflector are either non-existant or too shallow. I have a
resin conversion kit that has managed to correct the "missing" light
details. I have no idea how the modeler that made the master for this
part accomplished this delicate feat. On the other hand, this conversion
kit part did not fix the shallowness of the concentric rims around the
deflector dish. On one kit, I choose to deepen the rims, as that the
"light" details are only visible from a narrow point of view.
- Saucer-engineering interconnect is missing a section. The top of the
interconnect should reach horizontally about 1" out to the appropriate
deflector grid line.
- All of the docking ports require some work. The bridge docking port
needs to be drilled out and backed with sheet styrene. Scribe a line
showing where the door's meet. The rest of the docking ports are the
wrong size. Fill with evergreen tube and drill with (I think) a 3/16"
- There are no docking ramp doors. There is a "circle" representing what
I believe is a docking port, but there should be rectangular doors
there. The actual ramp surround is raised, so I cut a .005" sheet of
styrene to the correct size, and scribed the doors into it, then glued
it to the model.
- Photon Torpedo tubes are just rectangular lumps. If you have good
eyesight or a magnifying glass, you can scratch out a new part with the
correct shape, depth, and radiating support panels. I've built this
part. One does not need a micro-scope to cut the parts or to assemble
them. After cutting the tubes to the correct depth and glueing them to
the "backing piece", the array of triangular supports can be cut by "eye".
Assemble with superglue. The part is small enough that just getting it
close will produce something that other modelers will think you're a
scratch-building "god". Trust me, the part will look ridiculous until
its finished, and will appear frighteningly intricate. If you use solid
lumps for the "actual" tubes, and your attempts to hollow them out comes
out ragged, just slop a drop of tenax into the "tube" part. The tenax
will smooth out the "bore".
- Ignore the kit instructions on painting details. Refer to the
Spaceships article or the other references posted above for most of the paint colors. If you're interested
in going all out, perusal of the Star Trek references will reveal additional shades of grey & blue on the model, but since I don't have access to the FX miniature here I couldn't comment on what the FS numbers are and how much they vary with the painting recommendations in the FSM article.
In addition, Jeffrey Griffin has these notes:
The lower sensor array from the ERTL Reliant is NOT accurate, but much closer to what is needed versus the E-A part. It needs to receive some detailing, most notably the "vents" on the surface just inboard from each of the outer recessed panels. Plus, those recessed panels aren't accurate and need work.
Bridge not only has the sensor dome on top too tall and is too long, it's also too tall, overall. Needs to be shortened a bit by sanding off roughly 1/32" from the bottom.
In addition to the rim on the "Matter/Anti-matter reactor" (impulse deflection crystal) being too tall, the crystial itself is too tall and needs to be shortened. Easily done by cutting the part out and sanding or trimming to proper height and reattaching.
Impulse engine exhaust "vents" are really easy to detail using Evergreen .030" V-Groove sheet styrene. Cut out existing backing piece to use as a master, scribe out what you need from the v-groove stock and glue in place. Looks MUCH better that way.