This kit builds a decent-sized model ( 14" x 12" x 4"). Parts fit is generally acceptable, and seams and joints are either easily disguised or not evident. Assembly is straightforward. My kit had little flash and no warped parts. Alas, outside of general dimensions and shapes, it is not a faithful reproduction of the original movie miniature. Major flaws are:

Assembly is straightforward. Don't put the whole thing together in one sitting; build the "bridge", "neck", and "main hull/body" sub-assemblies, sand, detail, and paint them, then put them together. This way makes handling the model a whole lot easier!

Painting this beast was ... well, I rapidly lost my enthusiasm for the immense amount of masking required for each color. The effort paid off, though, with a good looking model. Paints I used (all Testors) were:

• FS 36440 - Flat Gull Grey;
• FS 36081 - Euro I Grey;
• FS 36307 - Light Sea Grey
• FS 31136 - Insignia Red;
• FS 37875 - Flat White;
• # 1103 - Gloss Red (Impulse Engine);
• FS 28915 - Flourescent Red;
• # 1144 - Bright Gold;
• # 1177 - Neon Yellow.
  

I painted the model as subassemblies because they were easier to handle while masking. After washing and drying off the subassemblies in warm soapy water, I sprayed a good base coat of flat black, followed by 2 coats of the base color (Flat Gull Grey). After allowing this to dry for a solid week, I started with the next 'higher' color (i.e., the color that would be applied over the grey, and later partially covered by other colors). Also, the instructions don't show this, but there are white 'flashes' on the inboard side of the top surfaces of the main hull plainly evident on the boxtop photos.

I covered the model in 2" wide masking tape (after reducing its 'tack' by placing it on a plexiglass sheet and removing it), traced the desired markings with a .5mm pencil, and cut them out with a sharp no. 11-blade hobby knife. After letting the white dry for two days, I covered it up with more tape. I used a paintbrush handle and a toothpick to burnish down the tape around the engraved details, then cut out the tape around all the Euro I Grey details. I then repeated the process for the rest of the colors. The painting instructions were incomplete in several areas - especially the for the Red. I used the boxtop photos of the studio model as a guide to produce a more accurate color scheme.

I handpainted all the Bright Gold details. Because my hands are not always steady, i first scribed around the edge of the details by lightly pressing the blade of my knife along the color separation line. The paint then flowed along the line, filling it in and making a sharp demarcation.

The bridge module required much the same treatment. I carefully masked off the dark grey stripes along the face, then painted them Euro I Grey. I then applied Neon Yellow to the portholes with the tip of a toothpick. The Insignia Red details were edged with my knife and hand painted.

All in all, painting took almost a month - mainly because I quickly grew bored with the tedium of masking and kept putting the model aside; I probably accumulated no more than 20 hours on this step. It really paid off in the end, though.

Since I did not light the ship I did not have any wiring or power source to hide. I used a clear acrylic rod 1/4" in diameter (taken from a drink stirrer I found at Wal-Mart) to perch the completed ship above a wooden display base. This base is a piece of 3/4" pine approximately 11" x 5", cut in the shape of a Klingon dagger (the pattern was derived from the Star Trek Omnipedia) and stained a light cherry color.

Many local hobby shops will have one or two of these kits - I saw one in Ron's Mundelein Hobbies recently.